In like 2008 I was coming back from an overnight airsoft event in rural Texas at like 3am and had to stop for gas. I pulled into the only gas station in a small town just off the highway and was just about to get out of the truck when a sketchy dude walks out from behind the gas pump and started asking me questions through my window hey man, cool truck, is that yours or your parents, where you coming from? I rolled out of there real fast and found a safer stop up the road.

Keep in mind, I was in military gear at the time because I was young and dumb, but that didn’t stop sketchy McCrackhead from chatting me up.

I’m not familiar with the quick draw, is that the little one way rope clips? Functions like a ratchet or check valve but for rope?

I need to move the winch by a couple of inches but the idea is that the winch cable is tangent to the mounting point on the cabinet, and the winch cable is vertical when the cabinet is flush to the ceiling. I just pre-mounted everything before I had the winch spacing figured out so its off by 2ish inches.

I did some sketchy napkin math and the load in the cable as is is ~30-75lbs depending on what is in the boxes and how its arranged assuming the box weight based on a half sheet of 5/8 plywood and 30-50lbs of stuff in it. I can live with that.

Hanging loads still make me nervous and I will be righing up some kind of safety pin/clip for these.

Yep, they are as close to twins as I can make with my skills. Agreed on the piano hinges, gotta use what I had on hand. They seem to be okay so far but you know how stuff gets sneaky after a while.

The awning box is just a really shitty worm drive gear box, its “positive locking” either by design or by poor manufacturing. I.e. they don’t spin unless you spin the input shaft.

Really, there is probably less than 50 total lbs in the whole setup even when the tools are in it. Overhead loads just sketch me out in general.

Pocket hole screws and glue for the base cabinets. Machine screws and nuts for the hinges. Hex bolts and lock nuts for the winch setup. Its all roughly comparable to what is used on garage doors.

Nah, just sanders, sandpaper, router bits. Stuff like that.

No question there. I’m working out how to do a spring loaded pin or latch system.

Thanks! The cable is supposedly rated to 350lbs BUT the worm drive awning box is rated to ??!¿Lbs. It held me + the shelf load and my tools as a “proof load”. I am looking into adding a spring loaded latch of some kind so it hooks in automatically but I don’t have that 100% figured out yet.

Mine are too little for now for much more but I have gotten them successfully to use our Emby server for videos and music. Calling that a win.

I’ll check that out, I already do dairy-free except cheese and butter but I will be damned if I avoid onions.

You’re good, just trying to prepare you for the spirited debate lol

I had the zen touch as well for the same reason. Sadly that one got lost in Highschool.

Real talk, do you get hella gassy and if so how do you deal with it? I’ve been making an effort to eat more fiber and it’s created levels of gas that has me concerned that the US might bring me democracy soon.

100% a question to get angry answers on both sides. I use anti-sieze on lugs but I also use an adjusted torque value with that to compensate for the reduced friction, and check my lugs frequently.

There are two possible failures here, you overstretch the stud and yield it from the reduced friction in the thread increasing the tension in the stud threads which weakens the stud and either pops it off when you tighten it or it fatigues and pops off later. The other failure is that the nut comes loose later when you are driving. I’ve never seen that actually happen.

Reason for me using anti-sieze is, I tow a trailer in salt water and have had lugs rust to the studs then snap the hex off the lug leaving me to drill out the little nubbin that got left behind. Luckily it was in my garage that it happened and not on the road.

Thanks, I figured it was low risk because they were already fully dead, cheap(ish) experiment. I did watch it like a hawk while I was charging and put it in a lipo bag in case the spicy pillow got too excited. It’s been running well for a week and no fires so far.

The temps in Houston are now firmly in the dangerous range during peak summer. When you reach a certain humidity and temperature, your body can’t regulate its internal temperature by sweating anymore, you essentially have to have some kind of external input to cool off, that can be cold(er) water, air conditioning, fans (where you can have lower humidity or temperature air blowing over you, or something similar.

If you can make changes to your structure, doing a radiant barrier or some kind of false roof (even a solar shade or something that doesn’t block all the sun) over your existing roof to limit the solar heat transfer to your structure can help.

If you can get some insulation for the windows, especially if you can get the foil lined version and direct the foil outside, that will also help.

Local air conditioning (mini splits or single room units) are often less efficient but if you are just focused on making it tolerable, you can do a single room as a cool down room for less money (upfront and in energy cost) vs a whole house or multi room unit. There are 12v units that can be run on a decent size solar setup like used in RV’s or campers.

It’s not really noticeable imo.

I have done that before but it collects chips when I am working with steel.

On portable stuff I do the same. For grinders, I use zip-ties.